I was reading the Wikipedia page on pâté, as you do. The page states that:
![]() |
Cooked roman Iscia Omentata, forcemeat or pâté cooked in caul fat. |
Pâté was known to the Romans, who generally made it with pork, although other main ingredients might include marinated and spiced birds' tongues.
The reference given is to: Beullac, Geneviève, ed. (2001). Larousse Gastronomique. London: Hamlyn, an English translation of the classic French encyclopedia of food. I just happen to have this book and actually looked up the reference. The sentence in the book is exactly the same as the one given above, but no reference to an Ancient Roman source is given.
Now, I've transcribed and translated Apicius' De Re Coquinaria and I have edited and made redactions of several hundred Ancient Roman recipes. This really piqued my interest, as I could think of nothing off hand that could remotely be an Ancient Roman meat pâté.
Now, there are several recipes for vegetable/herb/olive/cheese based pâtés, including most famously: Moretum/Garlic and Herb Pâté as well as: Olivarum Conditurae (Olive and Celery Tapenade), Collumella's Moretum, Mixtura cum Caseo (Soft Cheese and Herb Purée), Mixtura cum Nucleis Pineis (Pine Nut, Cheese and Herb Pâté) and Pisam Vitellianam sive fabam (Peas or Broad Beans Beans in a Herb Sauce).
Then I started thinking about what a pâté is. Modern French pâtés really have a Medieval origin and were forcemeats baked in a pastry crust. Now, this is not an Ancient Roman thing, their pastry-based recipes were limited. But they did have forcemeats and used them fairly regularly. Once classic example is Leporem farsilem (Stuffed hare with white sauce) where a forcemeat is made from a blend of finely-chopped chicken livers and hare brains with herbs and liquamen but bound with eggs and which is used to stuff the body cavity of the hare. This definitely has some elements in common with pâté but is made from hare and chicken livers rather than pork.
The recipe that's most often conflated with modern dishes is Isicia Omentata, often rendered as Roman Burgers (though its more akin Seychelloise Crépinettes, Greek and Cypriot Şeftali kebabı or South African Skilpadjie).
Now, going back to Isicia Omentata. Now, these are a forcemeat of minced (ground) pork and breadcrumbs wrapped in caul fat. Essentially a forcemeat wrapped in caul that's partly steamed in caroenum. This being the classic French definition of pâté as a steamed forcemeat. So I think that ancient Roman Iscia Omentata as well as being called 'Roman Burgers' are also Roman forcemeat pâté. The mystery of the Larousse Gastronomique's source of the 'ancient Roman pâté' is solved.

Comments
Post a Comment